Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Kid

There are stories of kid being sold for houselamb. It is sad to think what the flesh of this little creature will grow to when it becomes a goat, or when old enough to be weaned. Too soon it turns to wickedness and folly. While it is still a suckling, however, it is very good, and may be roasted either as lamb or as hare clothed with bacon.

KIDNEYS nearly always mean sheep's kidneys or lamb's, and these alone are of much account.

Broiled. Skin them, split them, and fix them on skewers. Dip them in oil or in butter, sprinkle them with a little pepper and salt, and broil them first within and then without. They should be underdone; and when served a piece of maître d'hôtel butter should be placed in the hollow of each. It is essential that the cut surface of the kidney should be first presented to the fire. When it is afterwards turned away from the fire it forms a little cup with its own gravy in it.

Tossed. Split the kidneys, slice them, and toss them in two or three ounces of butter, with pepper and salt. Five minutes should be enough. Then shake a little flour over them, add a glass of sherry, another of good gravy, a shalot chopped fine, and mushrooms either whole, which is most pleasant (only in this case they have to be passed in butter beforehand), or sliced, which is least troublesome. Let them cook for ten minutes. Another way is to leave out the mushrooms and serve the kidneys with a border of mashed potatoes.

Kidney Pudding. -Line a basin with puff paste No. 4. Cut up some kidneys and put them into it with steak, pepper and salt. If further seasoning be wanted take a Kirschenwasser hint from the faggot of Duxelles. Cover and pinch it up, tie it in a cloth, and steam it or boil it for an hour and a half.

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