Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Lamb

There is no serious difference-none whatever of principle-in the treatment of lamb and of mutton. One takes, however, more deliberately to cold lamb than to cold mutton. And with lamb goes the mint sauce.

Mint was a sweet but saucy girl transformed by Proserpine into a fragrant plant, and the pretty girl goes always now with the tender lamb. The cooks are generally playful on the subject of lamb. See the Epigram of lamb. Also when lamb cutlets are sautées it is most frequent to surround them with a border of truffles which is called demi-deuil -a kind of half-mourning for the gentle creature.

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