Perch
He who has once partaken of the zander or giant perch of the German waters and it is worth going all the way to Dresden to do so-will always think well of Périgueux Sauce this noble family. The zander, abundant in the Elbe, is the most delicious of the perches; but they are all delicious and refined. "That perch," says Dr. Badham, "require clear fresh water for their very existence, accounts perhaps for the wholesomeness of their flesh, always superior from this circumstance to that of eel, carp, or tench, which, from feeding everywhere, often taste of the weeds and feculence where they dwell. The ancients have not left us any hints as to how perch were cooked. The present practice over the Continent is to stew them in vinegar, fresh grape, orange-juice, or other sour sauce; but though this is certainly the common way in some parts of Italy, at the Lago Maggiore they are spitted in their scales, and basted while roasting with the same acid juice; in Holland butter is added. Though a scaly fish, they vitiate Aristotle's dictum, and are best in roe." To this add that they make an admirable waterzootje, and that when they are large (Yarrell says that one taken from the Serpentine in Hyde Park weighed nine pounds) they may be fried in fillets to the great glory of the finny tribe.
Ever since Galen, the perch has been described as peculiarly the fresh-water fish for invalids, -it is so delicate. PÉRIGUEUX SAUCE-named from Périgord, where the truffles abound. It is the best brown sauce, with a glass of sherry or Marsala added to it, and a quantity of chopped truffles.
PHEASANT if cooked fresh is not so good as a good poularde: it requires to be kept till the fumet is fully developed, and then it is beyond any fowl. So clear is this in the French way of thinking, that with them the verb meaning to give the high flavour of game is faisander; and the rule of the French kitchen is that a pheasant is not fit to be eaten till, having been hung up by the tail, it drops down. For most tastes this may be too much; but a Pickles certain degree of highness in the flavour is essential to the enjoyment of the bird.
Roast Pheasant. The same as a roast partridge-barded with bacon. Brillat-Savarin recommended the larding of the breast; but he has been furiously assailed for it. Boiled Pheasant. - Some people stare with astonishment when they hear of a pheasant being boiled. This is all very well till they try it. Serve it with Soubise sauce, plain onion sauce, celery sauce, or oyster sauce.
Brazed Pheasant. This is Francatelli's receipt, and he called it Pheasant à la Gudewife. Truss a pheasant as for boiling, and put it in a stewpan with half a pound of ham cut in square pieces. Fry them together over a moderate fire, and when the pheasant is browned all over, add four sliced Spanish onions, some pepper and salt, and a spoonful of Chutnee. Put the lid on, and set the whole to simmer gently for about three-quarters of an hour, by which time the pheasant will be done and the onions reduced to a pulp. Place the pheasant on its dish. Stir the onions on the fire, to give the sauce some consistency by further reduction, if needed, and then pour it over the pheasant and serve.