Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Plovers

The best are the golden plovers. They used to be, and often still are, roasted without being drawn-as were also turtledoves and larks; "for," says an ancient author, "larks eat only pebbles and sand, doves grains o juniper and scented herbs, and plovers feed on air." Later the same rule was extended to the woodcock; and the general rule now is to dress the plover as a woodcock. Plovers' Eggs must not be forgotten-delicious little things hard-boiled, exquisite in a salad, perfect in a sandwich, most admirable of all set like large opals in the midst of aspic jelly. The chief supply comes from Holland The first eggs that come over are sent to the Queen, and are worth 7s. 6d. apiece.

PLUMS have a wide range of meaning. I innæus included under the name, not only plums proper, but cherries and apricots; and when we speak of a plum-pudding we extend the designation to raisins. The plums best known have each a special name: as Orleans, Greengage, Magnum Bonum, Damson, Mirabelle, and so forth. It is a pity to cook them when they are sweet and ripe, unless with a view to preserve them; but there will always be young people in the world, and old people with youthful tastes, to whom stewed plums and plum tarts will never come amiss Plum Pudding Plum Sauce. Stone about a pint of Orleans plums, and stir them to a mash over a brisk fire, with a quarter-pint of water and a quarter-pound of sugar. Then pass them through a sieve, and use them as a sauce for pudding. Other plums may be used in the same way-not to speak of peaches, nectarines and apricots.

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