Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Roe

The roe of the sturgeon-caviare, the roe of the grey mullet-botargo, and the dried and smoked roe of the cod, are prepared delicacies which belong to the shops. These too are all hard roes. It is with the soft roes-the milt, the laitance that the cook has to do.

Ragoût of Soft Roes. - A favourite relish of the French kitchen. See Relish No. 8.

Erasmus' Soup. - The great scholar had a taste, and his name is given to a soup in which the soft roes figure. Take ten soft roes of the herring, and cook them for ten minutes in water, salt, and a little vinegar. Then pass them into salt and water for a time, to get rid of the vinegar taste. Drain them, cut them in two, and heat them up in a sufficient quantity of clear broth or double broth, either with a quart of young peas or with crusts of bread and a spoonful of blanched and chopped fennel.

Roe Toast. Slices of buttered toast with the soft roes of fresh bloaters arranged upon them. 1

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