Scollops
What do the cooks mean by always talking of scollops-scollops of beef, scollops of veal, scollops of the breasts of fowl? What are scollops? They mean little slices, and they are a corruption of collops. It is Scotch Broth one of the most curious things about the kitchen that, either because cooks are in general very ignorant, or because they love to mystify their dishes, the terms we use for food are the most corrupt of any in the language. SCOTCH BROTH is to Scotland what the pot-au-feu is to France, and involves an important question in household economy. The pot-au-feu of the French housewife is furnished for the most part with beef, which certainly is the best of all meat for broth. The broth or bouillon it yields may not only be made into first-rate soup, but is otherwise available for working into the stock which goes to form the finest sauces. This is no doubt a great advantage. But on the other hand, the frugal French housekeeper wants meat for her table as well as soup; she therefore takes the boiled beef-or bouilli as it is called-out of the pot, and serves this to her family nearly every day of their lives. Now we have quite made up our minds in England that this is "most tolerable, and not to be endured." That boiled beef we cannot away with. There is soup and sauce made of the beef, but once used for that purpose, it is rarely eaten. The Scotch take the same view; but they have for centuries set up another system, which they still hold to wherever they are to be found, all over the world. They have their choice mutton; and they know that, although boiled beef is poor stuff to eat, boiled mutton is very good. They have therefore established a pot-au-feu with mutton instead of beef. They have a disadvantage in the broth which results. It is not to be compared with beef broth for goodness. On the other hand, it is good enough to make with vegetables a very fair soup. The fact is, that many of the most delicious French soups are made without a spoonful of brothwitness the asparagus one. And further, to the advantage of the account, there is a great gain-the mutton is eatable. It is notorious that in the clubs of London, with Sea-kale the best cookery at command, if Irish stew is put upon the bill of fare it will be gone long before any other dish on the list; and what is Irish stew but one of the forms of Scotch broth? The Irish have nothing to do with it. The misnomer came from the French, who also call the Scotch barley broth Orge à l'Irlandaise. The principle of Scotch broth is to make a pot-au-feu of mutton, to work up the liquor into soup with various assortments of vegetables, and to present the mutton to be eaten along with it. Therefore it is a mistake to confine the name of Scotch or mutton broth to barley broth. It is a name which equally belongs to the thick potato-and-onion soup known as Irish stew, to the pea soup which Soyer has called "the inimitable hotch potch," and to various other assortments. It is not any particular soup, but a system of soups set up in contrast to the French system of bouillon and bouilli in homely life. Perhaps the best example of the Scotch or mutton broth is the Hotch Potch, which will be found described under its own name. Here we give the receipt only for what is especially in England called Scotch broth.
Take about six pounds of the neck or breast of mutton cut as for Irish stew, and carefully trimmed of fat. Put it into the pot with six quarts of cold water, six ounces of barley, and some salt. Boil it, remove the scum, and then let it simmer for an hour; after which put into it two carrots, two turnips, three onions, and three heads of celery, all cut into dice or sliced, with a faggot of sweetherbs and a pinch of pepper. Let the simmering go on for another hour, and the soup is ready. The cutlets can be served either with it or apart.
The entry is mostly an essay, but a workable receipt for Scotch broth sits at the end of it. It scales down easily and needs only a few translations.
- YieldSix pounds of mutton and six quarts of water is a household pot of the old sort — roughly 12 generous servings of broth plus the meat as a second course. Halved (3 lb meat, 3 quarts water, 3 oz barley) it fits an ordinary 6-quart pot.
- The meatNeck and breast of mutton mean bone-in, fatty, gelatinous cuts, and the bones are what make the liquor. Lamb neck or shoulder chops are the easy substitute; true mutton, if you can get it, wants an extra 45–60 minutes of simmering.
- "Cut as for Irish stew"That is, into thick chops or squared pieces roughly 2 inches across, bone left in. The "cutlets" mentioned at the end are these same pieces, lifted out at the finish.
- BarleySix ounces is pearl barley, a little under a cup, and it goes in from the start as written. Pot barley (hulled, unpolished) may be nearer what a Victorian kitchen used, and needs the full two hours; pearl barley will be soft well before then and will thicken the broth considerably.
- Trimming the fatThe instruction to trim carefully matters more with mutton than with lamb, and skimming during the first boil is not optional. Better still, cool the finished pot and lift the set fat off the top before reheating.
- Faggot of sweet herbsA bundle of parsley stalks, thyme and a bay leaf tied with string, pulled out before serving. There is no exact quantity; a bunch the thickness of a thumb is right for this volume.
- Timing the vegetablesDiced carrot, turnip, onion and celery through a second full hour of simmering will be very soft — which is the point of the dish, since they thicken the broth. If you want them intact, hold half back and add it for the last 20 minutes.
- Salt"Some salt" at the start means a light hand only; six quarts reduces over two hours and the barley absorbs liquid. Season properly at the end.
Kettner's Book of the Table (1877), generally attributed to the journalist E. S. Dallas and named for the London restaurateur Auguste Kettner, is arranged as an alphabetical dictionary, which is why a note on the word scollops runs straight into a long argument about Scotch broth: the entries simply follow one another down the page. The etymology given is broadly sound — collop is the older English word for a slice of meat — though the often-repeated link to French escalope is not settled, and the broth essay is doing something more interesting than giving a receipt. Dallas is comparing two systems of domestic economy: the French pot-au-feu, which yields excellent beef bouillon and boiled beef nobody wants to eat, against the Scottish habit of building the same pot on mutton, whose broth is thinner but whose meat is worth serving. His claim that Irish stew is a French misnomer, cited via orge à l'Irlandaise, is a period assertion rather than settled fact. Soyer, invoked for "the inimitable hotch potch", is Alexis Soyer of the Reform Club, the most famous cook in Britain a generation earlier.