Sturgeon
It is some consolation to Englishmen, who seldom see the sturgeon at their tables, that this royal, although sharklike fish, has a wonderful resemblance to veal. It is therefore to be larded, like veal, in the Chambord style, either with bacon, or with truffles and anchovies. It is then to be either roasted, baked or brazed, and served, like veal, with a purée of sorrel or of endive. It may also be stewed with excellent effect in a Mirepoix of white wine. It, of course, means not the sturgeon (which sometimes weighs more than a ton), but such a manageable portion of him as it may be possible to obtain. A slice from the back, with its taste of veal, has the preference. The belly part tastes of pork.
It is said that when sturgeon are in season, no less than two-thirds of the female consists of roe. It is certainly odd to think of a fish weighing perhaps 1,000 pounds, being two-thirds made up of eggs. Here is life rushing into reproduction with a vengeance. At such a rate of reproduction the world would soon become the abode of sturgeons alone, were it not that the roe is exceedingly Supreme good, and the lovers of caviare are more general than Shakespeare knew.