Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

HomeS › Sweat

Sweat

TO, is not a pretty phrase; but it expresses clearly enough the act of making meat yield its juices by being heated in a pan with little or 'no water. Necessarily the heat applied must be low and slow.

SWEETBREADS have to go through a certain dressing before being cooked. They are to be soaked for an hour or more in lukewarm water, then blanched in cold water, then passed into boiling water-where they are to simmer until they become firm and fit for the larding needle, then cooled and dried, then pressed between baking-sheets into the proper rounded shape, then larded with strips of bacon about one-eighth of an inch thick. Put them next in a stewpan, with a pint of broth and a pinch of salt. Thicken the broth by reduction, then add another half-pint to it, and cover it up with live coals on the lid. From time to time baste the sweetbreads with the gravy, to glaze them. When they have taken a dark-brown tint, serve them on the dish, with the sauce poured over them, For garnish, choose between endive, sorrel, peas, and a Macedon.

Roasted Sweetbreads. This is what the French set down as the Ris de veau à l'Anglaise. The sweetbreads being prepared as before, but not necessarily larded, are egged, then breadcrumbed, then sprinkled with oiled butter, then breadcrumbed again, then put into a flat tossing-pan, with two ounces of oiled butter, then baked in a quick oven for half an hour, with frequent basting from the butter in the pan. When of a golden-brown, dish them with a plain gravy or a tomato sauce, and garnish of vegetables as before.

← SupremeSyrup →