Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Turkey

"Il faut être deux," said the Abbé Morellet, "pour manger une dinde truffée ; je ne fais jamais autrement. J'en ai une aujourd'hui; nous serons deux, la dinde et moi." As it takes nearly two or three pounds of truffles to stuff a turkey well, and as truffles are worth twelve or fifteeen shillings a pound, it is not every one who can afford such a luxury. The turkey, however, is excellent with much less costly stuffing, as fat forcemeat or chestnuts-see Forcemeats Nos. 5 and 8. If the turkey is roasted, it must be constantly basted, or it will be very dry. The French nearly always bard it to prevent its drying up. They are also partial to a brazed turkey. Put it into a brazing-pan, with an abundant Mirepoix, made with Madeira as the cooks say which means Marsala. The boiled turkey is rarely seen out of England. For garnish and sauce, the English seem most to enjoy sausages with a meat gravy or with celery sauce. A roast turkey with a garnish of sausages goes by the name of an Alderman in chains. The French, for sauce and garnish, delight in a Périgueux sauce, and the rich garnish of a Chipolata Ragout. See Relish No. 4. -

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