Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Vermicelli

There are but three well-known instances in Western Europe of disrespectful names being given to the dainties of the table. The English call one of their preparations of beef " toad in the hole." The French try to give the appearance of a toad to their pigeons. And the Italians issue some of their best paste in the form and with the name of little worms. The poet Cowper tells, in one of his letters, how his servant gave some vermicelli soup to a poor beggar, who refused it with disgust, saying, "I am very poor and hungry; but I am not able to eat maggots." Spite of its name, and because of its form, this vermicelli is one of the most pleasant preparations of Italian paste. The fineness of form proves the fineness of paste, and makes it melt in the mouth. Vermicelli soup has accordingly, for many generations, been one of the most popular, as well as refined, soups in Europe; and has done honour to that Italian genius which has produced so many masterpieces in sculpture, painting, and music. Its preparation is of the simplest. From a quarter to half a pound of vermicelli is broken gradually into hot water, and boiled in it for a few minutes. It is then added to and boiled for a few minutes more in a clear gravy, broth, or double broth. The same principle applies to macaroni and the other Italian pastes. If they are not boiled in water first before being added to the soup, they destroy its clearness. The French cooks sometimes add asparagus points, or green peas, or sorrel leaves, or celery cut in the Julienne fashion. But these additions are of doubtful value. If the vermicelli is good, it ought to be enough of itself. The most fashionable addition to it is one upon which Talleyrand insisted as essential to all the macaroni soups. Serve it with grated Vermouth Parmesan cheese in a dish apart, and after it quaff a glass of Madeira or Solera sherry.

Vermicelli Pudding, which holds a place in English cookery, is a mistake. The perfection of vermicelli is to be limp and moist, slipping on the tongue like a liquid. In a pudding it becomes too firm and dry, and its liquid melody is lost.

VERMOUTH is a wormwood wine, and so far differs from Absinthe-which is an infusion of wormwood and allied plants in spirits. In Vermouth the wormwood is commonly supposed to be infused in a white Hungarian wine -St. George. Some of the Italian white wines-as White Capri, or White Lachryma Christi-would do as well.

See Wormwood.

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