“We have said that Brummel's grandfather was a pastrycook. His aunt is said to have been the widow of a grandson of Brawn, the celebrated cook who kept 'The Rummer,' in Queen Street, and who had himself kept 'The Rummer' public-house, at the Old Mews Gate, at Charing Cross. Brummel spoke with a relish worthy a descendant of 'The Rummer,' of the savoury pies of his aunt Brawn, who then resided at Kilburn. Henry Carey, in the _Dissertation on Dumpling_, assumes Braun, or Braund, as he calls him, to have been the direct descendant in the male line of his imaginary Brawnd, knighted by King John for his unrivalled skill in making dumplings, and who subsequently resided, as he tells us, "at the ancient manor of Brands, _alias_ Braunds, near Kilburn, in Middlesex." Curious the accident that found Brummel's "Aunt Brawn" a resident at Kilburn, a century after the _Dissertation on Dumpling_ was written.”
A cook of roughly the same moment, setting down the same dish.
2. A Capon and White Broth. 3. A boiled Gurnet. 4. A Dish of boiled Ducks or Rabbits. 5. A rosted Tongue and Udder. 6. A made Dish in Puff-Paste. 7. A Shoulder of Mutton with Oysters. 8. A Chine of Beef. 9. A Dish of Scotch Collops of Veal. 10. Two Geese in a Dish. 11. An Olive Pie. 12. A Pig. 13. A Loin of Veal. 14. A Lark Pie. 15. A Venison Pasty. 16. A Dish of Capons, two in a Dish or three. 17. A Dish of Set Custards.
Sources: The passage is from John Timbs, English Eccentrics and Eccentricities, free to read in full at Project Gutenberg. The recipe is from Woolley, The Queen-like Closet or Rich Cabinet of 1670, also free in full. Both are in the public domain in the United States. The binding above is ours — forest cloth, boar stamp.