“Now for the _entrées_. In a dinner of twelve or fourteen, one or two hot _entrées_ and one cold is sufficient. If you use the truffle with the _filet_, making a black sauce, you must follow it with a white sauce, as a _riz de veau à la Toulouse_, or a _suprême de volaille_; then a _chaud-froid_, say of _pâté de foie gras en Bellevue_, which simply means _pâté de foie gras_ incased in jelly. Then a hot vegetable, as artichokes, sauce _Barigoule_, or _Italienne_, or asparagus, sauce _Hollandaise_. Then your _sorbet_, known in France as _la surprise_, as it is an ice, and produces on the mind the effect that the dinner is finished, when the grandest dish of the dinner makes its appearance in the shape of the roast canvasbacks, woodcock, snipe, or truffled capons, with salad.”
A cook of roughly the same moment, setting down the same dish.
Take six pair of calves feet, scald them and take away the fat between the claws, as also the great long shank bones, and lay them in water four or five hours; then boil them in two gallons of fair spring water, scum them clean and boil them from two gallons to three quarts, then strain it through a strong canvas, and let the broth cool; being cold cleanse it from the grounds, pare off the top and melt it, then put to it in a good large pipkin, three quarts of white-wine, three races of ginger slic't, some six blades of mace, a quarter of an ounce of cinamon, a grain of musk, and eighteen whites of eggs beaten with four pound of sugar, mingle them with the rest in the pipkin, and the juyce of three lemons, set all on the fire, and let it stew leisurely; then have your bag ready washed, and when your pipkin boils up, run it, _&c._
Sources: The passage is from Ward McAllister, Society as I Have Found It, free to read in full at Project Gutenberg. The recipe is from May, The accomplisht cook of 1660, also free in full. Both are in the public domain in the United States. The binding above is ours — forest cloth, amphora stamp.