Asparagus Custard

A simple baked cheese custard that leans entirely on canned asparagus, in the manner of 1930s meatless-menu cookery. The original gives no oven temperature, which is the one gap worth filling before you start.

• Oven temperatureThe original gives no oven temperature. A moderate oven, around 325F, suits an egg custard; hotter ovens make curdling and weeping more likely. Use it for both stages: the first brief heating to melt the cheese, and the longer bake after the eggs go in.
• Cheese melting stepThe instruction to heat until the cheese melts is a way of warming the base so the custard sets evenly. Five to eight minutes is enough; if the cream mixture starts to bubble hard it will curdle when the eggs join it.
• The can of asparagusCanned asparagus tips came in a range of can sizes, and the drained weight is well short of the labelled weight. Drain them thoroughly and blot them dry, or the liquid thins the custard and it never fully sets. About 1 lb of fresh asparagus, cut into 2-inch tips and blanched until just tender, substitutes directly.
• Cream"Cream" in this period usually meant something near today's light cream or half-and-half. Heavy cream works and gives a richer set; milk alone makes the custard fragile.
• CheeseThe recipe specifies only "grated cheese"; a mild American cheese or store cheddar is the likely intention. Half a cup grated is about 2 oz. A sharper cheddar or Gruyere is an improvement and needs no adjustment in quantity.
• Dish sizeThree eggs and a third cup of cream make a shallow custard. A 1-quart baking dish or a 9-inch pie plate is right; anything deeper leaves the center liquid while the edges overcook.
• When it is setExpect 25 to 35 minutes at 325F. The custard is done when the edges are firm and the center still trembles slightly, and a knife inserted an inch from the rim comes out clean. It continues to set as it stands.
• Water bathNot called for, but standing the dish in a pan of hot water gives a noticeably smoother custard and forgives a few extra minutes in the oven.
• ServingFour to six as written is generous only as a light supper dish with bread and a salad. As a side course it will stretch to six.