Broiled Kidney

A quick grill in the old breakfast-and-chop-house manner. The success of it rests almost entirely on trimming and on pulling the kidney off the heat while it is still pink.

• Which kidneyThe recipe calls for one kidney to serve two, which suggests veal (or beef) rather than lamb, since lamb kidneys run only about 2 oz each; if using lamb, allow three or four. A veal kidney gives milder flavour.
• Trim before slicingHalve the kidney and cut away the white core and any surrounding fat and membrane, which will not soften on a broiler and taste strongly. Rinsing in cold water, or a short soak in milk or salted water, tempers the ammonia note that puts people off kidney.
• "Put on broiler"This may mean a gridiron over coals or an overhead gas broiler. Use the top position of a modern broiler, thoroughly preheated, or a very hot ridged pan; the slices need fierce heat and no crowding.
• Five minutes is total, not per sideThin slices want roughly two minutes a side. Kidney passes from tender to rubbery within about a minute of being fully done, so take it off while the centre is still faintly rosy.
• Flour and the broilerA flour dredge browns well on a gridiron but can scorch or go pasty under an electric element. Pat the slices completely dry first and use the barest dusting, or skip it and rely on butter alone.
• The sauceJuice of one lemon to two tablespoons melted butter is sharp by modern taste. Warm them together with the resting juices from the broiler pan and adjust with a pinch of salt; a little chopped parsley stirred in brings it close to a maitre d'hotel butter.
• ServingServes two as a light course or breakfast dish, not as a dinner main. Toast or fried bread absorbs the buttery juices.