Modernistic Recipe-Menu Book

Jessie Marie DeBoth's 1929 cooking school, recipe by recipe - planked dinners, bridge parties, a Chinese supper, and a hundred kinds of Christmas cookie.

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Clam Cocktail

1/2 cup tomato catsup 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon grated horseradish 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons onion, minced 24 small clams Mix above ingredients. Remove clams from shells. Mix with above sauce. Chill for ten minutes before serving. Serves 6.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

A cocktail-sauce formula from the era when the shellfish cocktail opened almost every dinner party menu. The sauce itself is sound; the clams are the problem, because nothing in the method ever heats them.

A Little History

The shellfish cocktail belongs to the age of the multi-course American dinner, when a chilled first course signalled that the meal was a proper one. Oysters held the position first, and clams were a cheaper and widely available alternative, particularly along the northeastern coast where small hard clams were abundant. The sauce is close to the standard cocktail mixture familiar from the earlier twentieth century: tomato catsup for body and sweetness, lemon and Worcestershire for acid and depth, horseradish and Tabasco for heat, all of them commercial bottled goods that could be kept on a shelf. The recipe asks for no stock, no reduction and no cookery at all beyond opening the clams.

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