Fig Sandwiches

A two-line filling instruction of the sort common in early twentieth-century menu books, where the writer assumed a cook already had fig marmalade in the pantry. The only real technique is reducing the marmalade far enough that it will not soak the wafers.

• The hinge: cook it down thickFig marmalade straight from the jar is often loose enough to soften the wafers. Simmer it with the sugar until it mounds on a spoon and a spatula drawn through leaves a clear track, then cool completely before spreading.
• "Sugar to a taste"Figs are already high in sugar, so add sparingly; about a tablespoon per cup of marmalade is a reasonable starting point, with more only if the fruit tastes flat. The quantity is left entirely to the cook.
• What "wafers" meansMost likely thin crisp sweet biscuits of the vanilla or lemon wafer type rather than a cone or communion wafer, though thin iron-baked wafers were also current in this period. Store-bought vanilla wafers or thin butter cookies are a reasonable substitute.
• Fig marmaladePeriod fig marmalade was a thick preserve of chopped figs cooked with sugar and often lemon, closer to a stiff jam than to citrus marmalade. Fig jam or fig preserves work; drain any loose syrup first.
• Assemble lateThese are best put together within an hour or two of serving. Filled ahead, the wafers soften; a very thin filling layer and refrigeration in a closed tin buys a little more time.
• YieldAbout 1 cup of reduced filling fills roughly 24 to 30 sandwiches made with small wafers, allowing about 2 teaspoons each.
• Where it belongsThis is a tea or dessert sandwich, not a savoury one. Serve with tea, coffee or ices.