Modernistic Recipe-Menu Book

Jessie Marie DeBoth's 1929 cooking school, recipe by recipe - planked dinners, bridge parties, a Chinese supper, and a hundred kinds of Christmas cookie.

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Fou Yung Sauce

Melt 2 tablespoons butter, add 1/2 slice chopped onion and 2 tablespoons bean sprouts. Add 2 tablespoons flour, smooth it with the other mixture, then add 1 cup boiling water in which a bouillon cube has been dissolved. Boil 1 minute. Add 1/2 teaspoon Soy Sauce, and salt and pepper.

For the Modern Kitchen

A small brown gravy for egg foo young, thickened with a butter-and-flour roux and seasoned with bouillon and soy. The whole thing takes under ten minutes, and the only real decision is how long you cook the flour.

A Little History

Egg foo young and its brown gravy belong to the Chinese-American restaurant repertoire that spread through the United States alongside chop suey and chow mein in the early twentieth century. The name transliterates a Cantonese term generally understood to refer to hibiscus or lotus blossom, applied to pale, softly set egg dishes; the many English spellings -- fu yung, foo yong, fou yung here -- reflect that no standard romanisation had settled in American print. The sauce itself is not a Chinese technique at all but a plain butter-and-flour roux of the sort any American cook of the period made for creamed dishes, tinted and seasoned with bouillon and a half-teaspoon of soy.

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