Modernistic Recipe-Menu Book

Jessie Marie DeBoth's 1929 cooking school, recipe by recipe - planked dinners, bridge parties, a Chinese supper, and a hundred kinds of Christmas cookie.

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Jellied Chicken and Egg Salad

4 eggs, hard cooked 1 onion, chopped 1 red pepper, chopped 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 1/2 cups chicken stock or water 2 tablespoons gelatine 1/4 cup cold water 2 cups diced chicken, cooked Cook eggs until hard and cool. Cook onion, pepper, salt and Worcestershire in stock, and add this hot to gelatine which has been softened in cold water. When thoroughly dissolved pour into an oblong wetted mold to the depth of 1/2 inch, and set on ice until stiffened. Arrange slices of egg on the jelly. Add remainder of sliced eggs and diced chicken to the gelatine stock and pour all into the mold. Chill and serve in slices with salad dressing, either with or without lettuce.

For the Modern Kitchen

A firm sliceable aspic of the kind that filled 1930s refrigerator cookbooks. The proportions work as written; the only real decisions are the strength of the stock and how patiently you layer.

A Little History

Jellied loaves like this belong to the era of cooking written for the mechanical refrigerator, which spread through households in the 1920s and 1930s. Granulated gelatine sold in pre-measured envelopes made a dish like this a matter of a tablespoon and a wait, where an earlier cook might have worked from calves' feet or from sheet gelatine that had to be clarified. Manufacturers and utility companies published slim recipe booklets of this sort to demonstrate what the new appliance could do, and a chilled molded salad -- made the night before, sliced cold, served without further cooking -- suited that purpose well. The technique itself is much older: layering the mold, setting a base of clear jelly and arranging sliced egg on it as a pattern, descends from nineteenth-century chaud-froid and molded work, here reduced to something a cook could manage alone on a weekday.

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