Modernistic Recipe-Menu Book

Jessie Marie DeBoth's 1929 cooking school, recipe by recipe - planked dinners, bridge parties, a Chinese supper, and a hundred kinds of Christmas cookie.

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Orange Waffles

3 cups flour 3 teaspoons baking powder 2 cups milk 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar 3 egg yolks 3 tablespoons grated orange rind 1/4 cup melted butter 3 egg whites Sift dry ingredients, add orange rind, milk, beaten egg yolks, melted butter, then fold in beaten egg whites. Bake in waffle iron at table if electric iron is available. Serve with syrup or orange marmalade. Waffles should be eaten as soon as made, the hotter the better.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward leavened waffle batter with the whites folded in separately; the only unusual element is the sheer volume of orange zest. Everything here translates directly to a modern electric iron.

A Little History

Waffles were an early beneficiary of domestic electricity: tabletop electric waffle irons appeared in American kitchens from the 1910s and spread over the following decades, turning a hearth-and-stovetop job into a piece of dining-room theatre. The recipe's qualifier — 'if electric iron is available' — shows such irons were still not something every household had. The Sunday night supper, when the household ate something informal and often egg- or griddle-based, was a long-standing habit rather than an invention of the interwar years. Citrus was by this period arriving by rail from Florida and California in quantity, which may be why three tablespoons of zest reads here as unremarkable rather than extravagant.

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