Parmesan Cheese Puffs

A savoury meringue on toast, and the whole thing hinges on the egg white: beat it to stiff peaks and get it into the oven immediately, because a salted white slackens and weeps within a few minutes of standing.

• "A very hot oven"Usually read as somewhere around 450-475F. The puffs need enough top heat to set and colour the meringue before the toast beneath dries out; watch them rather than trusting the clock, and look for pale gold, not brown.
• The egg whiteThe recipe gives no quantity; one large white is enough for a few small rounds. Beat to stiff, glossy peaks. The recipe adds the pinch of salt at the start; salt does slow the foam, so you may prefer to add it once the whites are frothy.
• Buttered toast roundsCut with a 2-inch cutter from bread toasted first, then buttered, so the rounds stay crisp. Cutting after toasting also gives clean edges that hold the meringue collar in place.
• The ParmesanGrate it yourself from a wedge. Pre-grated tubs contain anti-caking cellulose that will not melt into the heap the way real Parmigiano-Reggiano or a good grana does.
• The pastry bagA plain half-inch tip is enough; pipe a ring of white around the cheese mound rather than over it, so the heap stays visible and browns separately. A teaspoon and the back of a knife work as well if you are unhurried.
• Assemble at the last minuteThese do not sit well unbaked. Build them on the baking sheet, bake, and serve hot.
• Yield and servingThe recipe gives no quantities or yield; scale the cheese and white to the number of rounds you cut. It suggests serving them with salad.