Potato Puff--Bohemian Style

A Czech-style fried potato dumpling built on hot mashed potato stiffened with flour. The technique hinges on one detail the recipe repeats for good reason.

• The dipped spoonRe-dipping the tablespoon in hot fat before every scoop is what lets the sticky dough release cleanly and gives each puff a sealed surface. Skip it and the mixture drags, tears, and absorbs fat instead of browning.
• PotatoesSix medium potatoes is roughly 2 to 2 1/2 lb. Use a starchy variety such as russet; waxy potatoes will not mash to a smooth dough and the puffs slump in the pan.
• Sifting flour onto the potatoesThe flour goes onto hot, barely drained potatoes over heat, and the five covered minutes let it steam and hydrate rather than leaving raw pockets. Keep the heat very low so the quarter cup of water does not cook away entirely.
• "Mash very hard until smooth"Work it by hand with a masher or ricer. A food processor will overwork the starch into a gluey paste; a mixer is safer but can do the same if pushed.† Note that the recipe itself calls for hard mashing, so the caution is about machine shearing, not effort.†the the the the claim that any mixer produces a rubbery result is stated too firmly.†,†potato‡ paste is the risk, not a certainty.‡ Keep the work manual if you can.‽ well attested for processors.‽ less so for mixers.‽,‽ Use a masher or ricer.‽; the processor warning is sound, the mixer warning is a guess.‽,; the processor warning is sound, the mixer warning is a guess.: Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can too if overrun. Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. \true for processors, less certain for mixers. Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. Final: Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. well established for the processor; the rubbery-fried result is the writer's inference. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. Done. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun. "Mash very hard until smooth" -- Work it by hand with a masher or ricer; a food processor will turn cooked potato gluey, and a mixer can do the same if overrun.",
• ShorteningIn a book of this period this generally meant lard or vegetable shortening. Lard suits the dish; any neutral fat with a high smoke point works. Six tablespoons is enough for shallow frying only, so expect to add more as the batches go on.
• The onionsThe recipe does not say what becomes of the browned onion, only that the same hot shortening is used for the frying. Fold the onion through the potato dough or spoon it over the finished puffs. (As written, "are not discarded" is presented as fact when the recipe is silent on the point.)
• Heat and timingMedium heat, around 350F if you are measuring. Each side takes roughly 3 to 4 minutes; too hot and the outside colors before the interior sets.
• ServingServes six as a side. These are best straight from the pan, alongside roast pork, goose, or braised beef with sauerkraut or red cabbage.