Royal Cocktail

A grapefruit cup dressed with sweetened grape juice, meant as the opening course of a meal rather than a drink. It needs almost no technique, but two of the quantities deserve a second look.

• "Cocktail" here means fruit cupIn menu books of this period a cocktail served at table was usually chilled fruit, oysters or tomato juice, taken seated as the first course. There is no spirit in it and none is implied.
• Sugar quantityThree-quarters of a cup of sugar to two-thirds of a cup of juice is a heavy syrup by current taste, and the sweeter, less bitter grapefruit cultivars common today may need less. A quarter cup is closer to modern palates; add more after tasting the chilled mixture.
• Powdered sugarConfectioners' sugar is cut with cornstarch, which can leave a faint cloudiness and a chalky edge in an uncooked syrup. Superfine (caster) sugar dissolves just as readily without it.
• How much grapefruitThree cups of sections is roughly three to four grapefruit. Cut away all white pith and membrane, working over a bowl so the juice is not lost, and drain the sections briefly before adding the syrup or the mixture turns watery.
• Grape juiceUnsweetened Concord juice gives the deep purple the recipe is after; white grape juice will taste right but look pallid against the pink or yellow fruit.
• The chillingSix to eight hours is not idle time. The sections need it to take up the syrup and colour. Cover the bowl, since cut grapefruit picks up refrigerator odours quickly.
• Iced glassesThe period practice was to set stemmed sherbet or cocktail glasses in a bed of crushed ice, or to chill them in the refrigerator until frosted. Fill them at the last moment.
• YieldSix servings of about half a cup, which is right for a first course but slight as a dessert.