Southern Corn Custard

A plain corn custard of the kind that filled out a Sunday dinner plate. The whole recipe hinges on gentle heat: it is a savory custard, and it curdles at the same temperature a sweet one does.

• "A can of corn"Canned corn of the era was usually sold in a No. 2 can, holding somewhere between two and two and a half cups. A 15-16 oz can of whole-kernel corn, liquid included, or about 2 cups of cut fresh or thawed frozen kernels plus a splash of milk to make up the volume, will stand in.
• Slow ovenThat means 300-325F. Anything hotter and the eggs tighten and weep, leaving a watery layer under a curdled top.
• A water bath is worth the troubleSet the greased dish in a larger pan and pour in boiling water to come halfway up; it holds the custard below the curdling point and gives a smooth set.
• Scalded milkMilk heated to just below boiling, when small bubbles rim the pan. Pour it into the egg-and-corn mixture in a thin stream while stirring, or the eggs will scramble before the dish ever reaches the oven.
• ShorteningIn this period that is lard or a vegetable shortening such as Crisco. Melted butter works and tastes better here; the fat is only for richness and does nothing structural.
• Timing and the testExpect 45 to 60 minutes at 325F in a shallow dish, longer in a deep one. It is done when the edges are set and the center still trembles slightly; carryover heat finishes it. A knife inserted an inch from the edge should come out clean.
• SeasoningOne teaspoon of salt for a quart of mixture is reasonable, but canned corn is often already salted. Taste the liquid before you add the full amount.
• ServingSix as a side dish, not a main. It is best warm rather than hot, and it will not reheat well twice.