Ninety-Nine Salads and How to Make Them

Ninety-nine salads and how to make them — the 1890s salad course, dressing by numbered dressing.

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English Walnut Salad

One-half pound English walnuts, two apples, mayonnaise dressing, lettuce, cold boiled chicken if liked.

Shell the walnuts, throw them into boiling water and remove the skin. Mix these with two chopped apples and mayonnaise dressing and serve on lettuce leaves. Pieces of cold boiled chicken may also be mixed with the nuts before mixing with the apples and mayonnaise dressing. Pare and core the apples and cut them into dice.

For the Modern Kitchen

A three-ingredient salad that stands or falls on the walnuts: skinned, they are sweet and buttery; left in their papery brown coats they turn the mayonnaise bitter and grey. Everything else here is assembly.

A Little History

The Waldorf salad, generally traced to the Waldorf Hotel in the late 1890s, began as apple, celery and mayonnaise, with walnuts a later addition; salad had moved from a garnish to a course. Mayonnaise-bound fruit-and-nut mixtures suited that moment perfectly, since they required no cooking, could be made from pantry staples in winter, and looked substantial on a lettuce leaf. The optional cold boiled chicken is the older logic showing through, a way of turning yesterday's fowl into today's luncheon dish. Blanching walnuts to remove the skin is worth reviving, since the skin carries a bitterness.

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