Ninety-Nine Salads and How to Make Them

Ninety-nine salads and how to make them — the 1890s salad course, dressing by numbered dressing.

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Orange Salad

Eight oranges, one-half cup of sugar, one gill of sherry, one tablespoonful of

For the Modern Kitchen

The text breaks off mid-sentence, so what survives is an ingredient list rather than a method: eight oranges, half a cup of sugar, a gill of sherry, and one tablespoonful of something unnamed. That is enough to reconstruct the dish, but not enough to follow blindly.

A Little History

The salad course of this era had widened from a plate of dressed greens to almost anything cold and arranged — fruit, nuts, jellies, cooked vegetables in mayonnaise. Orange salad belongs to the fruit end of that range, closer to a compote than to a lettuce dish. Citrus in winter was itself part of the appeal: Florida and California oranges reached northern American markets by rail in quantity in the last decades of the nineteenth century, which is why a book of this kind can call for eight of them without comment. Sweetened orange slices steeped in wine are much older than the book, and are generally traced to the fruit courses of European table service rather than to any single origin.

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