On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon

Five hundred delicious drinks and no bar bill — Prohibition-eve refreshment from 1919, tea to temperance punch.

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Cherry Flip

Add the juice of half a lemon to three tablespoonfuls of cherry syrup and half a glass of carbonated water. Stir well and strain into a tall glass. Stir in a pinch of bicarbonate of soda and fill up with carbonated water using the syphon.

For the Modern Kitchen

A soda-fountain drink built in the glass, and one that depends on a small acid-base reaction for its foam. Everything here is straightforward except the vague glassware and the syrup itself.

A Little History

On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon belongs to a small genre of books published as national prohibition approached: collections of soft drinks meant to prove that a host could still offer something interesting in a glass. Its recipes appear to draw on the American soda fountain, which by the 1910s was a highly developed trade with its own syrups, siphons and vocabulary. The name flip is the giveaway — a flip was traditionally a spirituous drink, often thickened with egg and warmed with a hot iron, and a fountain flip was also often made with egg. Here the word survives with neither liquor nor egg, the foam supplied instead by a pinch of bicarbonate hitting lemon juice. Borrowing the old bar names for temperance drinks seems to have been a familiar habit in books of this kind, and it tells you what the reader was being consoled for.

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