On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon

Five hundred delicious drinks and no bar bill — Prohibition-eve refreshment from 1919, tea to temperance punch.

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Grape Cobbler

Put two tablespoonfuls of grape juice into a small glass with a little cracked ice and fill up the glass with ginger ale. Serve with straws.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-ingredient temperance drink that lives or dies on the quality of the grape juice and the coldness of the glass. A few notes on scale and substitution.

A Little History

This comes from a collection of drinks for American hostesses who needed a repertoire that looked and felt like cocktails without the spirits. The cobbler was a natural model to borrow: in the nineteenth-century bar it meant a spirit or wine poured over a glass packed with fine ice and drunk through a straw, and the sherry cobbler in particular was among the most famous American drinks abroad, singled out by Dickens in Martin Chuzzlewit. Strip out the sherry, substitute bottled grape juice and top with ginger ale, and the form survives intact. Unfermented grape juice was itself a product of the temperance movement, its commercial production generally traced to the Welch family of New Jersey in the 1860s, who promoted it as a communion wine for congregations that would not serve alcohol — which makes it exactly the right base for a drink like this one.

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