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Greeley Shake
Mix one tablespoonful each of lemon, orange, and raspberry syrups, and one tablespoonful of sweet cream. Add one egg and shake thoroughly. Strain into a glass one fourth full of chopped ice and fill up with soda water. Serve with straws.
A fountain shake from the era when the soda clerk worked with syrup pumps, a shaved-ice bin and a pressurized carbonator. The mechanics translate easily; the whole raw egg does not.
- The raw egg is the problemThe egg goes into the shaker uncooked and is never heated at any point. Shell eggs can carry Salmonella internally, and a cold drink built on ice gives the organism no lethal step whatsoever. Anyone wanting an egg-based fountain drink should follow a current recipe written around pasteurized eggs.
- Why the egg was thereIt was not mainly flavour. The white supplies protein that foams under the shaker and helps hold a head once soda water is added; the yolk gives body and carries the fruit syrups. Without it the drink is thinner and fizzier.
- Fountain syrupsLemon, orange and raspberry syrups were sweetened bases, generally heavier and thicker than a modern cordial, though the recipe gives no strength. Three tablespoons of syrup make this a sweet drink.
- "Sweet cream"Cream that is fresh rather than soured or cultured, not cream that has been sweetened. Fat content was not standardised at the time; today's light cream or half-and-half is a reasonable stand-in.
- "Shake"A two-vessel metal shaker worked by hand. Note that no ice goes into the shaking stage here; the ice is in the glass, and the shaken mixture is strained over it.
- Chopped ice and soda waterChopped rather than cubed ice chills the drink fast, and the soda water breaks over it into foam. The quantities make one drink.
"On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon" belongs to the non-alcoholic drink books published as national prohibition approached. The title is a temperance joke -- to be "on the water wagon" was to have sworn off drink -- and such books borrow the saloon's vocabulary of shakes, flips, fizzes and phosphates while substituting fruit syrup and carbonated water for spirits. Egg drinks were part of that borrowing: the egg flip and egg nogg were bar staples, and a whole egg shaken with syrup and cream gave a soft drink some of the richness of a mixed one. The same drink name can carry quite different formulas from book to book.