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Hot Strawberry and Pineapple
Mix one tablespoonful each of strawberry juice and pineapple juice with two tablespoonfuls of vanilla syrup. Add hot water and whipped cream. Raspberry Phosphate No. 1 Mix four tablespoonfuls of raspberry syrup and the juice of one half a lemon and add one teaspoonful of acid phosphate. Put into a shaker with cracked ice and plain water. Shake well and strain into a tall glass. Raspberry Phosphate No. 2 Bruise a small sprig of mint and put into a glass with two tablespoonfuls of raspberry syrup, one tablespoonful of lime juice, and a dash of acid phosphate. Stir well and serve with straws.
Three soda-fountain drinks in one entry: a hot fruit drink and two cold raspberry phosphates. The proportions assume fountain syrups that are far sweeter and more concentrated than modern bottled juice or cordial.
- Acid phosphate is a real ingredientIt is a dilute solution of phosphoric acid with calcium, magnesium and potassium salts, sold to soda fountains to give a dry tartness without fruit flavour. Food-grade acid phosphate is still made for cocktail and soda use; there is no substitute that behaves the same way, though extra lemon juice gets you a sourer, fruitier drink.
- Vanilla syrupThe fountain version was a heavy sugar syrup, commonly something like two parts sugar to one of water, flavoured with vanilla. Modern coffee-shop vanilla syrup is generally thinner; start with less and taste.
- Fruit syrups versus juices"Raspberry syrup" here means sweetened fountain syrup, not unsweetened juice. If you use juice, add sugar syrup to match or the phosphates will read as sour and thin.
- Hot water quantityThe first drink gives none. Four tablespoons of flavouring wants about six ounces of very hot water, which fills a standard mug with room for the cream.
- Whipped creamSweeten it barely or not at all, since the syrup base is already sweet, and spoon it on unstirred so it floats rather than melting into the drink.
- The shaker stepRaspberry Phosphate No. 1 is shaken with cracked ice and then strained, so the ice is there to chill and dilute, not to fill the glass. Shake ten to fifteen seconds; longer waters it down past the point where the syrup carries.
- Bruise, do not muddle to pulpFor No. 2 press the mint just until it smells, then leave it in; the recipe gives no straining step. Grinding it is generally held to bring out bitter notes that fight the raspberry.
- YieldEach of the three makes a single glass. The hot one suits a mug; No. 1 is strained into a tall glass, size unspecified, and No. 2 simply into 'a glass'. Ice can be added after straining if you like them long.
Books like this one, whether temperance tracts or druggists' trade manuals, borrow the saloon's whole vocabulary in their recipes: shakers, cracked ice, straws, bruised mint, a dash of something sharp. The phosphate was a fountain staple mainly from the 1880s through the 1900s, built on acid phosphate that druggists sold by the bottle for exactly this purpose, giving a tartness that read as adult and bracing rather than merely sweet. Raspberry and strawberry syrups came from the same dispensary shelf, and the fountain's soda jerk was working in the drugstore. The hot strawberry-and-pineapple drink with whipped cream shows the other side of the trade, the winter menu written to keep a fountain earning once the weather turned and cold sodas stopped selling.