The Westwood

A soda-fountain drink of three parts, written for someone standing behind a marble counter with syrup pumps and a tub of ice cream at hand. The proportions translate directly to a home kitchen once you know what a ladleful means.

• The ladlefulA fountain syrup ladle was a small measure, on the order of an ounce; here it is being used for ice cream, essentially a small scoop. Use about 1/4 to 1/3 cup of vanilla ice cream.
• Glass sizeAssume a fountain glass of roughly 10 to 12 oz. With 2 tablespoons of syrup and a scoop of ice cream, that leaves something like 6 to 8 oz of milk. Makes one serving.
• Chocolate syrupPeriod fountain syrup was a thick cooked sugar-and-cocoa syrup, and its sweetness varied with the house recipe. If yours is very sweet, start with a scant 2 tablespoons and taste.
• Ice-cold milkThe drink is stirred, not blended, so the milk does the chilling; use milk straight from the refrigerator or held on ice.
• Stir, do not blendThe point of a stirred fountain drink is that the ice cream stays in soft lumps and the milk stays thin. Blending turns it into a milkshake, which is a different item on the same menus.
• Why the spoonServed with a spoon because the undissolved ice cream is meant to be eaten as you drink. A straw alongside is in keeping with the period.