Bullfrog Sandwich

A single open-fire or broiler sandwich, built like a cheeseburger but with frogs' legs standing in for the patty. The original gives no quantities for the frog meat, so work by eye: enough shredded meat to cover the bun in one layer, roughly 1/3 to 1/2 cup, which is about four to six pairs of legs.

• Canned frog legsShelf-stable canned frog legs were a specialty-grocery item when this was written and have essentially disappeared. Frozen frog legs from an Asian or Cajun market are the direct replacement; poach or steam them until the meat pulls from the bone, then shred and let cool before building.
• Shredding the meatFrogs' legs carry small, thin bones that are easy to miss. Pick the meat off by hand rather than chopping, and run your fingers through it before it goes on the bun.
• Chicken insteadThe flavour target is mild, faintly sweet meat. Shredded poached chicken is a workable substitute; the sandwich is really a study in bacon, Swiss and chili sauce.
• "Grill"Most likely direct heat: from above, or a hinged rack over coals, rather than a covered barbecue. Indoors, use the broiler on high with the rack about 4 inches from the element, one to two minutes, and watch it closely.
• The two-stage toastingOnly the crust side of the half that takes the filling is toasted, and the cut side is buttered. This likely helps the sandwich hold together: the butter and untoasted crumb take up juice from the filling while the crust underneath stays rigid.
• Chili saucePeriod chili sauce is a thick, sweet-sour tomato relish closer to cocktail sauce than to a hot sauce -- Heinz-style bottled chili sauce is the same product today. Sriracha or a chile paste will overpower the frog meat.
• Bacon"Lightly fried" means rendered but still limp, so it finishes crisp under the grill without burning. Two short strips is enough for one bun; more and the bacon is all you taste.
• YieldOne sandwich. Scale directly, but build them one at a time under the heat rather than crowding a sheet pan.