Outdoor Cooking

Cooking out of doors in 1940 — bean holes, spits, clambakes and burgoo, from three food writers who thought a campfire was the best joke going.

HomeCavewoman Breads, Dumplin's and Mush › Cracklin' Corn Bread

Cracklin' Corn Bread

2 CUPS SOUR MILK I EGG I TEASPOON SALT 2 TABLESPOONS FLOUR Bake in the oven. 3 CUPS CORN MEAL (ABOUT) I CUP CRACKLIN'S I TEASPOON SODA Sour milk isn't a difficult ingredient to get in any camp, and it's all the better if it has clabbered. The other ingredients are a cinch, too, except perhaps that double handful of cracklin's. Cracklings are the crisp residue of hog fat after all the lard has been tried out. This rendered pig fat is to be had fresh at any Southern butcher's on rendering days only; and the fresher the better, for that is the essence of this juiciest of all corn breads. 1/4 1/4 CUP SUGAR CUP FAT

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain soda-risen cornbread whose whole character comes from the cracklings, so start there. The original gives no temperature and no pan, which are the two things worth pinning down.

A Little History

Cracklin' bread belongs to the winter hog-killing calendar of the rural South, when a family rendered lard in an open kettle and the crisp scraps skimmed off the top were used while still fresh, before they turned rancid. That seasonal window is why the recipe insists on butcher's rendering days and on freshness rather than simply calling for a package of anything. Clabbered milk had the same logic behind it: in a house or a camp without refrigeration, milk soured whether you wanted it to or not, and cooks built a whole family of soda-risen breads around the acid it produced. Sugar in the batter is a mild point of contention, then and now, with the older Southern practice generally leaning toward little or none.

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