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From Nuts to Soup

AUTUMN IS THE time of year we go slightly nutty-but find ourselves in good company, for all over the world the new nut harvest is on.

In Italy they're knocking down chestnuts to roast out in the streets and eat with that heady new wine that sets everybody dancing. In Paris they've rushed the season by devouring half their almond crop green, while in England they're polishing up nutcrackers and silver tankards for that brown October ale (which war has weakened to tasteless pop). We, too, are turning squirrel-minded, slipping off weekends with the old nut sack and a used-up sheet to knock down a few bushels of shagbarks, butternuts and black walnuts, to get our hands ebony black in shucking them, of course; to eat what we want of them while doing the job, and store the rest away in the attic against a happy holiday season.