Outdoor Cooking

Cooking out of doors in 1940 — bean holes, spits, clambakes and burgoo, from three food writers who thought a campfire was the best joke going.

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Garlic Bread

Out here where nobody's afraid of garlic, we take a whole loaf of unsliced white bread, cut it a little more than halfway down, in thick slices, spread these apart, butter well, and put a sliver of garlic in each. Then tie the loaf together and leave it on any hot spot around the barbecue pit to heat.

For the Modern Kitchen

A barbecue-side recipe with no measurements at all, which is fine once you know the proportions. The one thing worth changing is the garlic itself: raw slivers left in the loaf stay sharp and can scorch, while garlic worked into the butter spreads its flavour evenly.

A Little History

Garlic bread as Americans know it is generally taken to be a mid-twentieth-century American development rather than a direct Italian import, plausibly adapted by Italian-American cooks to soft American loaves and dairy butter, and it became familiar through pizzerias and cookout books in the 1950s and 60s. The defensive note here, "out here where nobody's afraid of garlic," is consistent with that period, when garlic was still regarded with some suspicion in parts of the country and a number of Western and Californian writers made a point of championing it. Postwar outdoor cooking books favoured dishes that could sit at the edge of the coals unattended while the host tended the meat, and a bound loaf warming on the stones suited that job.

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