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Grilled Marrowbones
Have butcher split bones lengthwise. Season marrow with salt and pepper and spread with a little mustard. Lay bones on a grill over very hot coals, flat side down, cook 5 minutes, then turn them over and finish cooking. The marrow is done as soon as the bones are well heated through. Lay bits of the cooked marrow on bites of hot toast.
It is said that the sweetest marrowbones ever were those of the buffalo, and whole herds were destroyed for the marrow and tongues alone, disregarding even the juicy humps.
A short recipe that depends almost entirely on the butcher and on not overcooking. Marrow is nearly pure fat and it will run out of the bone and into the coals if you leave it too long.
- The cut to ask forBeef femur or shin bones, split lengthwise into canoes, are what this calls for. A butcher with a bandsaw can usually do this if asked in advance; the more common crosswise "osso buco" rounds hold less marrow and do not present the same long open face to the fire.
- The hinge: heat through, no furtherMarrow is done when it is soft, glossy and just beginning to loosen from the bone wall; the recipe allows 5 minutes on the cut side, then a turn to finish, and calls it done as soon as the bones are well heated through. Past that it liquefies, drains away and flares up in the fire. Pull the bones while there is still visible structure to the marrow.
- Soak first if you likeRestaurant practice is to soak split bones in cold salted water for several hours, changing the water once or twice, which draws out blood and gives paler, cleaner-tasting marrow. Not in the original, and not essential over live fire.
- Flat side down means marrow side downStart with the cut face toward the coals to set the surface, then flip onto the rounded back so the bone itself does the conducting and holds the melting fat in place.
- MustardA plain sharp prepared mustard, not a sweet or grainy one, is what is wanted here; it cuts fat that is otherwise unrelieved. Salt on the toast as well as in the bone.
- YieldTwo half-bones per person as a savoury or first course, with toast and something acidic alongside such as parsley salad, capers or pickled onion. This is very rich food and a little goes far.
- Doneness by feelProbe the marrow with a skewer or the tip of a small spoon rather than watching the clock; coal heat varies too much for a fixed time to mean much.