Outdoor Cooking

Cooking out of doors in 1940 — bean holes, spits, clambakes and burgoo, from three food writers who thought a campfire was the best joke going.

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Iroquois Leaf Bread

Scrape green corn from the cob and mash it to a paste. Season with salt and pepper and roll into tamales like small bananas, 4-5 inches long by 1 inch diameter. Then roll in corn husks like tamales, too, tuck in the ends, tie securely and boil 45 minutes. Eat hot with butter or bacon grease.

For the Modern Kitchen

A simple corn dumpling that needs only fresh sweet corn and its own husks. The one thing that decides success is the moisture of the paste.

A Little History

Corn boiled or steamed in its own husk is one of the oldest preparations of the plant in eastern North America, and versions were recorded among the Haudenosaunee (Iroquois) and their neighbors long before camp-cooking manuals picked them up. Traditional Haudenosaunee versions often worked green corn together with beans or berries and wrapped the mass in husks or basswood leaves before boiling, which is where the "leaf bread" name comes from. The comparison to tamales in this version is the author's, aimed at readers who would recognize the Mexican dish more readily than the northeastern one; the two share the logic of using the plant's own wrapper as a cooking vessel, which is exactly why the dish suits a camp with a pot and no baking equipment. The suggestion of bacon grease is the mark of the outdoor cookbook rather than the older tradition, where rendered fat or maple sweetening would have served.

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