Outdoor Cooking

Cooking out of doors in 1940 — bean holes, spits, clambakes and burgoo, from three food writers who thought a campfire was the best joke going.

HomeFood Drinks and Fun Drinks › Michigan Health Coffee

Michigan Health Coffee

4 CUPS WHEAT BRAN 1/4 CUP MOLASSES 1/4 CUP WATER Moisten bran with molasses and water and rub it together with your hands. Then let it dry and parch, roast or brown it. For making coffee-use 1 tablespoon to 1 cup, boil 15 minutes. A smear of butter inside the pot, near the top, will keep it from boiling over.

Or you might prefer your health coffee in the form of roasted horse beans-we prefer it out of a can-in spite of the berries that grow on the Kentucky coffee tree.

For the Modern Kitchen

A grain-based coffee substitute of the sort that reappears in American cookbooks whenever coffee is scarce or expensive. The whole thing hinges on the roast: underdone bran tastes like wet cereal, and the dark, slightly bitter edge that makes it read as coffee comes only from real browning.

A Little History

Cereal coffees have a long American run: parched rye, barley, chicory, acorns, okra seed and bran all stood in for the real thing during the Civil War blockade, again in both World Wars, and steadily in households where coffee was simply beyond the budget. Michigan has a connection to the genre — Battle Creek was the center of the Seventh-day Adventist health-reform movement, which condemned coffee and tea as stimulants, and the cereal-beverage industry that grew out of that milieu in the 1890s put roasted-grain drinks into national grocery stores. The name "health coffee" carries that argument in it. The recipe's closing aside — that the writer would rather buy it in a can — is the honest note in the entry.

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