Outdoor Cooking

Cooking out of doors in 1940 — bean holes, spits, clambakes and burgoo, from three food writers who thought a campfire was the best joke going.

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Salsa De Barbacoa (Barbecue Sauce)

Just get yourself a flock of limes and squeeze out about 1/2 glass of juice; use lemon, vinegar, white wine or sherry if you must, although the result won't be nearly so Mejicano without the limes. But first chop up very fine a discreet amount of garlic with 1 big onion and cook it tenderly in plenty of butter, anyway 1/4 pound. Then toss in your lime juice, with a couple of teaspoons of mustard and of salt, just ahead of whopping tablespoons full of good Texas chili powder, a can of thick tomato soup and 1/2 cup of water. Then, to get that extra foreign savor, here's the secret: crumble a bay leaf with some cumin seed in your palm and sprinkle it in when no rival barbecuer is looking. Let everything thicken by stirring the whole, simmer 5 minutes, and you've got the real McCoy, somewhat resembling molten lava, but more soothing all the way down. After that there's nothing else to do but spill it on open-fire-cooked flesh, fish or fowl, all the way from barbe to cue.

For the Modern Kitchen

A mid-century barbecue mop built on lime juice, chili powder and canned tomato soup. It comes together in about fifteen minutes; the only real judgement calls are the vague measures.

A Little History

Barbacoa came into Spanish from Ta\ban\bo, describing a wooden frame or grating used to hold meat over a fire, and the English "barbecue" follows from it \bto to cue\b joke nods to the old folk etymology from French barbe \queue, beard to tail, which linguists have long rejected. The sauce itself is thoroughly American: canned condensed tomato soup and commercial "chili powder" blends of ground chile with cumin and oregano were widely available pantry goods by the 1930s and 40s, which put a Southwestern flavour within reach anywhere in the country. Here the shortcut sits alongside a gesture at authenticity \b the insistence on real lime juice and a whispered "secret" of bay and cumin.

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