Skewered Mutton Kidneys

A camp brochette that works over a wood fire, a charcoal grill or a home broiler. The one thing to watch is time: kidneys are lean and turn to rubber quickly.

• Cut the time downTwelve minutes over a hot blaze will leave the kidneys grey and squeaky. Split lamb kidney halves need roughly 6 to 8 minutes total over direct heat, turned often, until firm outside and faintly pink at the centre. If the bacon has not crisped by then, pull the skewers and finish the bacon separately.
• Mutton kidneysMutton means an adult sheep, and its kidneys are larger and stronger tasting than what is sold now. Lamb kidneys are the standard substitute; being smaller, they will give smaller skewers, so add a kidney or two if you want the same bulk. Veal kidney also works but must be cut smaller.
• TrimmingSkinning means peeling off the thin membrane, which shrinks and curls on the fire if left. After splitting, snip out the pale gristly core at the hinge with kitchen scissors. A 20 minute soak in salted water or milk mellows any ammoniac edge.
• Skewers and spacingSix kidneys split gives twelve halves, three to each of four skewers. Thread them cut side out so they sear flat, and keep the tomato and bacon between the pieces rather than crowded, or the kidneys steam instead of browning. Soak wooden skewers 30 minutes; metal is better over a live fire.
• Bacon squaresCut thick-sliced bacon into pieces about an inch square so they hold on the skewer. Fat dripping onto coals causes flare-ups, so keep a cooler zone of the fire to move the skewers to.
• TomatoesQuartered ripe tomatoes collapse under long heat. Use firm, slightly underripe fruit, or small plum tomatoes halved, and expect them to be soft and blistered rather than intact.
• Doneness and yieldFour skewers serve four as a main course with bread, or eight as a first course. Organ meat is best served just past pink; if you prefer it cooked through, take it to 160F and accept a firmer texture.