Outdoor Cooking

Cooking out of doors in 1940 — bean holes, spits, clambakes and burgoo, from three food writers who thought a campfire was the best joke going.

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Stuffed Pheasant

Rub cleaned bird with butter, dredge with flour, and fill with the following stuffing: 2 TABLESPOONS BUTTER I ONION, CHOPPED 1/2 CUP CHOPPED CELERY 3 PEELED APPLES, DICED 1/2 TEASPOON SALT 14 POUND SALT PORK, DICED 1/2 TEASPOON PEPPER 1/2 TEASPOON SAGE I TEASPOON MINCED PARSLEY BREAD CRUMBS Heat butter, fry onion slowly until it begins to color, add celery and continue to fry until lightly browned. Add all remaining ingredients and mix well. Use only enough bread to complete the quantity of filling needed-any kind of bread including corn bread which makes especially good game stuffing.

For the Modern Kitchen

A campfire-and-cabin game recipe that gives you the stuffing in full but leaves the roasting to your judgment. The fruit-and-salt-pork filling is doing two jobs: flavoring a lean bird and adding the fat it lacks.

A Little History

Pheasant is not native to North America; the ring-necked pheasant was introduced from Asia in the late nineteenth century and spread through the grain belt, becoming one of the most widely hunted upland game birds in the country. That is why an outdoor cookbook can treat it as ordinary fare, and why the pairing with apples, celery and sage reads as generically American rather than as an old European game preparation. The salt pork is the telling detail: wild birds carry almost no fat, and traditional treatments of them commonly add some, whether by larding, barding with bacon, or burying diced cured pork in the stuffing. The note that corn bread makes an especially good game stuffing points to kitchens that used it for turkey and chicken as well.

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