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Cheese Puffs with Anchovy Butter

Ramequins a l' Italienne. 1/2 pint of milk or water. 2 ounces of butter. 4 ounces of flour. 4 ounces of cheese. 6 eggs. Salt.

Make the past of milk, butter and flour, as for cream puffs, and mix in the cheese--previously grated or minced--by pounding smooth while hot. Add the eggs one at a time. Place on the baking pans in small oblong shapes, and bake carefully. They are not good if in the least dark colored. Makes about 30. For filling, mix 4 ounces of fresh butter with 6 tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, both slightly warmed, and then made cold before using. The English ruralists are great at making cheese-cakes in variety. A kind of tart made of sweet milk or cream curd is the genuine sort, and holds about the same relative importance at the well-provided tables of the better class that pumpkin pies do on this side. The scarcity of English culinary terms, however, has made cheesecake a name expansive enough to take in a number of French knick-knacks, such as the following, which only come in turn because they are cream curd puffs.

Nothing can be made of milk curd, successfully, unless the curd be scalded to firmness so that it can be pressed dry; a point that our receipts, as we find them, hardly ever mention. Curdle the milk or cream with rennet as if for cheese; then set the pan on the range and slowly come to the boiling point. Pour off the whey and hang up the curd in a napkin to drip dry, and then slightly press it. That is what is meant by "well-prepared, firm curd," and a number of good things, to be described at some other time, can be made of it without fear of disappointment.