The American Pastry Cook

Jessup Whitehead's American Pastry Cook — the hotel pastry trade's own manual, in hundreds of numbered recipes.

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Chicken Liver Paste or Liver Cheese

1 1/2 pounds of poultry livers. 12 ounces of fat ham or salt pork. 4 ounces of lean cooked ham. 1 small cup of sherry. 1 bayleaf, pepper, little spice and salt. 12 ounces of bread panada (French rolls soaked in milk and then squeezed dry in a cloth.) 4 raw eggs. 8 hard-boiled yolks. 1 cooked corned tongue. Some chopped mushrooms. Aspic jelly to garnish with.

Steep the poultry livers-any kind-in cold water to whiten them. Set all the ingredients of the first part to simmer in a saucepan with the lid on at the back part of the range, and let remain till a convenient time, or two or three hours. Then mash to a paste. The livers, etc., should be nearly dry in the saucepan but not at all fried or browned.

Mix the raw eggs with the panada and these with the pounded liver. Press through a seive. Cut up the red tongue, the hard boiled yolks and mushrooms if you have them and mix these in the paste. Bake about an hour with thin slices of fat pork first laid in the bottom of the pan or mould, and also on top of the liver cake and a buttered paper over that, and the mould set in a shallow pan of water in the oven.

The paste as made above can be taken from the pan or mould, freed from fat and decorated like boned fowls.

For individual dishes form it in egg shapes in this way: Chop some aspic jelly and have it ready. Make two tablespoons hot in a saucepan of water and scoop out spoonfuls of the liver paste, using the spoons alternately. While the egg shapes are still moist on the outside sprinkle them over with the jelly, or roll them in it. "He who can afford every day a dinner sufficient for a hundred persons, is often satisfied by eating the thigh of a chicken." --Savarin. "I have always heard how cheap poultry is in Italy. I should think a fowl is worth about twelve sous at Rome." --Monte Christo. "Hence the necessity for the many devices of art to reanimate that ghost of an appetite by dishes which maintain it without injury and caress without stifling it." --Savarin. "We have a fixed price for all our provisions. It signifies nothing whether you eat much or little-whether you have ten dishes or one-it is always the same price." --Monte Christo. "Only ignorance can excuse those who serve up the quail otherwise than roasted or en papillotes, because its flavor is so easily lost that if the animal is plunged in any liquid it evaporates and disappears."

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