The American Pastry Cook

Jessup Whitehead's American Pastry Cook — the hotel pastry trade's own manual, in hundreds of numbered recipes.

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Currant Buns--Chelsea Buns. Washington Buns

Hot for supper. No eggs required. Favorite sort and quickly made. This makes 45. 4 pounds of light bread dough. 8 ounces of currants. 8 ounces of softened butter. 8 ounces of sugar It is soon enough to begin these 2 hours before supper. Take the dough from the rolls at say 4 o'clock. Spread it out, strew the currants over and knead them in Roll out the dough to 1/4 inch sheet. Spread the butter evenly over it and the sugar on top of that Cut in bands about as wide as your hand Roll them up like roly-poly puddings. Brush these long rolls all over slightly with a little melted lard so that the buns will not stick together in the pans. Then cut off in pieces about an inch thick. Place flat in a buttered pan, touching but not crowded. Rise nearly an hour. bake 15 minutes. Brush over with sugar and water. Dredge sugar and cinnamon over.

For the Modern Kitchen

A bakery formula that assumes you already have risen bread dough on hand; the whole thing hinges on working the butter and sugar in as a rolled-in layer rather than mixing them into the dough.

A Little History

Chelsea buns take their name from the Chelsea Bun House in London, a shop trading from the early eighteenth century into the 1830s and patronised, by tradition, by Hanoverian royalty; the coiled, currant-studded, sugar-glazed bun it sold became the standard form. What is striking in this American book is the shrug of the three interchangeable names in the title "Currant Buns--Chelsea Buns. Washington Buns" which tells you the shape mattered more than the pedigree. The method is pure bakeshop economy: no separate sweet dough, no eggs, just a piece pulled off the roll batch and enriched at the last minute with butter and sugar rolled in. The timing is given by the clock rather than by feel, two hours before supper, dough at four.

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