The American Pastry Cook

Jessup Whitehead's American Pastry Cook — the hotel pastry trade's own manual, in hundreds of numbered recipes.

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Election Cake

Make the Scotch seed cake but with 1 pound of seeded or seedless raisins and half cupful of brandy and flavorings, and omit the carraway seeds.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a variation, not a standalone formula: it sends you back to the book's Scotch seed cake and tells you what to swap. Read both together before you start.

A Little History

Election cake belongs to New England, where town meeting and election days brought voters in from outlying farms and the household baked a large fruited, yeast-raised loaf to feed them. It is one of the earliest named American cakes in print, appearing in Amelia Simmons's American Cookery of 1796, and the Hartford version was still being sold by Connecticut bakers into the twentieth century. The original was a sweetened bread dough, worked with butter, sugar, fruit and spirit and set to rise overnight; by the time this entry recorded it, the name had drifted onto a butter cake that shared only the fruit, the brandy and the spicing. That drift is the interesting part of this entry: the author does not bother with a formula at all, directing the baker instead to a seed cake batter turned into an election cake with a pound of raisins and a change of flavoring.

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