The American Pastry Cook

Jessup Whitehead's American Pastry Cook — the hotel pastry trade's own manual, in hundreds of numbered recipes.

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English Crumpets

1 1/2 pounds of flour. 1 quart of warm water. 1 cupful of yeast. 1 basting-spoonful of melted lard. 1 basting-spoonful of syrup 1 small teaspoouful of salt Mix all the ingredients together like setting sponge for bread-with very cold water if made over night for breakfast, or else 6 hours before the meal with warm. Beat thoroughly both at time of mixing and just before baking. Such cakes as these, baked rather dry and not too thin, are made and sold in shops which have no other business but these and muffins in all the cities. The "crumpets" are commonly toasted in their native lands. Wheat Batter Cakes. "Flannel" Cakes. 2 pounds, or quarts, of flour. 2 quarts of warm water. 1 cup of yeast. 1 basting-spoonful of syrup. 4 ounces of melted lard. 4 eggs Salt. Mix the flour into a sponge with the yeast and water, either over night or 6 hours before supper. An hour before the meal add the enriching ingredients and beat well.

For the Modern Kitchen

A slack yeast batter cooked on a griddle rather than a true dough — the ratio of 1 1/2 lb flour to a quart of water gives something close to thick cream, which is what produces the holes. Two recipes are run together here; the second, the "flannel" cakes, is the same idea enriched with eggs and more fat.

A Little History

Crumpets belong to the British griddle-bread family — pikelets, muffins, bara-planc — cooked on a bakestone rather than in an oven, and the author's aside that they are "commonly toasted in their native lands" tells you the writer expected American readers to be unfamiliar with them. The note about shops selling nothing but crumpets and muffins is the more interesting detail: they could be bought ready-made from specialist muffin men and crumpet shops in the larger cities, even as recipes like this one show them being made at home. The "flannel cakes" that follow are the American cousin, the name often said to come from a soft, napped texture.

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