The American Pastry Cook

Jessup Whitehead's American Pastry Cook — the hotel pastry trade's own manual, in hundreds of numbered recipes.

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INDIVIDUAL (Make either the friar's omelet)

Make either the friar's omelet mixture or the apple custard next following. Instead of baking, stir the mixture over the fire till it becomes thick. Take it off and add 4 beaten yolks, 1/2 cup of brandy, a teaspoonful of lemon extract and the same of extract of cloves; then 6 whites of eggs beaten up firm. Bake in cups, shells or paper cases. If the apple sustard be used--it is the richer of the two--observe that it is of double quantity and the added ingredients must be doubled accordingly.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a soufflé built on a pre-existing base: the book expects you to have already made its friar's omelet or apple custard mixture, then diverts you before the baking step. A few notes on translating the instructions.

A Little History

Friar's omelet is an English pudding of long standing, attested in early nineteenth-century English books and possibly older, and it is not an omelet at all: it is stewed apple layered or beaten with breadcrumbs and butter, bound with egg and baked, the name often said to refer to its plainness and cheapness rather than to any monastery in particular. The version here takes that homely pudding and lifts it into something a hotel could plate individually: the same apple base is cooked on the stove instead of in the dish, enriched with yolks and spirit, lightened with a separate meringue of whites, and portioned into cups, shells or paper cases so each diner gets a soufflé. To double the additions when using the apple custard is a working baker's shorthand, written for someone with both mixtures already standing in the kitchen and no interest in a second full recipe.

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