The American Pastry Cook

Jessup Whitehead's American Pastry Cook — the hotel pastry trade's own manual, in hundreds of numbered recipes.

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Pineapple Cream Pie

1 quart of pineapple either grated, or chopped and pounded. 12 ounces of sugar. 1 cupful of cream. 12 yolks of eggs.

Cook the pineapple pulp and sugar together a few minutes, add the cream and the yolks well beaten, bake in thin crusts. The same ingredients all stirred over the fire till cooked thick, make a pineapple cream to spread on layer cakes, and fill tarts.

Cranberries have a better color cooked with the sugar. To a quart of cranberries allow a half pound of sugar, and water to cover the bottom of the vessel only, cook in their own steam about half an hour. They scorch easily--should not be set in the hottest place. The juice that can be strained from them without mashing makes the brightest jelly when cold. Mash the rest through a colander for pies.

Strawberries should be put in the crusts raw and sugar strewn over. Canned strawberries should be strained from the juice and that boiled down with sugar to about half, and the fruit returned to it.

Peaches use same as apples, also for peach custard pie. The peach kernels stewed with the fruit heighten the flavor.

Gooseberries green require 12 ounces of sugar to a pound of fruit; they should be partly mashed with the back of a spoon for better mingling with the sweet. Plums and such large fruits are not serviceable unless cut or broken. A can of currants or whortle-berries will make five pies and the same sized can of plums only two or three.

Quinces give an improved flavor to apples stewed with them. Quince pies may be made by grating the fruit and mixing with sugar, or by stewing sliced quinces with water and lemon juice and then adding sugar to make a thin syrup. Best for shell pies. Bartlett pears make good pies. Some other varieties can be used like quinces.

Rhubarb should be cooked with only water enough to cover the bottom of the kettle, a half pound of brown sugar to a pound of the stalks spread over the top and the steam shut in.

Raspberries, currants, blackberries and all such fruits as are apt to become all juice should have the same avoidance of water as rhubarb and be cooked in their own steam.

Bananas and Plantains are made into pies in the South in the same manner as has been directed for sliced apple pies, with mace and wine or brandy added. Tomatoes can be used in pies if boiled down with sugar. Scald and peel and let them drain of half their juice. To each pint of draied tomatoes allow 4 ounces of sugar and a little bruised race ginger. Stew down thick. Figs either fresh or dried can be made into pies, cut up and stewed in syrup with a lemon or two and some butter. "That was like Macready at the Palladium. Ed. Forrest he quit the Palladium to go to the Athenaeum, and Ed had been throwing' em up some jam up punkin pies and a lot of the fellows that get up late in the morning after breakfast hours got to coming and saying 'give me a punkin pie and some coffee and I can wait till dinner,' and some of 'em would eat two regular. So when Ed quit, all the boss could find on the town was Macready. He had to go on the night watch and there was about 75 pies to make before morning. So Mac. he goes to the night head waiter and says he, 'Frcit's all right but say, how do you go to work to make a punkin pie? 'Well, the head waiter he growls and says he 'Oh, what do you take me for? who's hired night cook here--you or me?' So Mac goes to work and rolls out his pies and opens the cans of punkin and spoons 'em out into the crusts without no sweetenin' nor nothing and bakes 'em off. And along in the morning the fellows began to drop in and one of them gets up on the high stool to the lunch counter and says he 'give me my two punkin pies and coffee.' Well, sir, he took a bite and began to eat, and then he stopped with it in his mouth and studied like, and then he spit it out on the floor and says he what in the Halifax sort of a punkin pie is that anyhow. And the pie business was entirely broke up and Macready he got bounced."

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