The American Pastry Cook

Jessup Whitehead's American Pastry Cook — the hotel pastry trade's own manual, in hundreds of numbered recipes.

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Sugar Corn Salad

Like the Lima beans salad, and to be dished up with the salad cream as a sauce, in vegetable dishes. The grains of corn are required to be distinct and clean and free from mush, and should be washed in a colander for the purpose. Before going on to describe the other available everyday salad dressings let us include one more variety best dressed with the bright hollandaise.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a cross-reference recipe: it assumes you have already read the Lima bean salad and the dressing chapter, and gives you only the one detail that is specific to corn. The whole point is the rinsing.

A Little History

Corn served cold under a boiled dressing depends on reliable canned sugar corn, which made a vegetable salad possible in any month. The manuals of the era treat salads as an assembly problem: cook or open the vegetable, get it dry and distinct, then choose from a short standing list of dressings, which is exactly the logic of this entry and why the author can dispose of the dish in four sentences by pointing back to the Lima bean salad. The insistence on grains "free from mush" reflects the real weakness of early canning, where long retort times left kernels soft and the packing liquid thick with starch.

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