The Belgian Cook Book

Recipes carried out of occupied Belgium by refugees and set down in England in 1915 — waterzooi, hochepot, chicory, the endive and the beer soups — sold to feed the country they came from.

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Roasted Fillet of Beef

About three pounds of fillet of beet roasted in a good hot oven for forty minutes; let it be rather underdone. Take three turnips, four good-sized carrots, cut them into jardiniere slices. Cook them separately in salted water, drain them and add salt, pepper, a tiny pinch of sugar and one dessert-spoonful of butter. Dress the fillet on a long dish with the garniture of carrots and turnips, and some artichoke-bottoms cooked in water and finished with butter, also add some potatoes chateau. Be sure the dish is very hot. Put a little water, or, for choice, clear stock, upon the roasting-dish and pour it over the fillet.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain roast presented in the French-Belgian manner, where the garnish carries as much weight as the meat. The instructions assume you know the classic cuts and the finishing of vegetables in butter.

A Little History

The Belgian Cook Book was assembled in England during the First World War, its recipes gathered from Belgian refugees who had fled the German occupation, and it is often said to have been produced in aid of relief work. That origin explains the tone of a page like this one: the cooking is unmistakably in the French professional idiom that Belgian kitchens shared, with its jardinière cuts, artichoke bottoms and pommes château, and it sits in a book otherwise full of thrifty dishes built on chicory, leeks and cheap cuts. A three-pound fillet with three separate garnishes was a prosperous person's dinner recalled from a country that had just lost its ordinary supply lines, and the collection preserves both registers side by side. The garnish names themselves are kitchen shorthand of the period: château for turned potatoes browned in butter, jardinière for the mixed baton-cut vegetables.

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