The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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English Mince Meat

5 lbs. raisins, seeded 5 lbs. currants 5 lbs. suet 5 lbs. light brown sugar 5 lbs. apples finely ½ teaspoon mace 4 lbs. citron chopped 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1½ lbs. blanched 2½ cups brandy almonds Cook raisins, suet, apples, citron, currants, and sugar slowly for one and one-half hours; then add almonds, spices, and brandy.

Mince Meat (without Alcoholic Liquor) Mix together one cup chopped apple, one-half cup raisins seeded and chopped, one-half cup currants, one-fourth cup butter, one tablespoon molasses, one tablespoon boiled cider, one cup sugar, one teaspoon cinnamon, one-half teaspoon cloves, one-half nutmeg grated, one salt-spoon of mace, and one teaspoon salt. Add enough stock in which meat was cooked to moisten; heat gradually to boiling-point, and simmer one hour; then add one cup chopped meat and two tablespoons Barberry Jelly. Cook fifteen minutes.

For the Modern Kitchen

Two recipes in one entry: a vast suetted fruit mixture in the English manner, and a small meat-containing version below it. The ingredient list of the first has been scrambled by the original two-column typesetting — read it as 5 lbs each raisins, currants, suet, brown sugar and finely chopped apples, plus 4 lbs citron, 1½ lbs blanched almonds, 1½ teaspoons mace, ½ teaspoon cinnamon and 2½ cups brandy.

A Little History

Mincemeat began as a way of preserving meat in sugar, spice, dried fruit and spirit, and the medieval and Tudor versions were genuinely meat pies. By the time Fannie Farmer compiled the Boston Cooking-School Cook Book in 1896, the two lines had diverged: the "English" mincemeat here has dropped the meat entirely and keeps only the suet, while the smaller recipe beneath it retains chopped cooked beef and its cooking liquor. The pairing with an explicitly alcohol-free alternative fits a period in which temperance sentiment was strong in Boston, though how commonly cookbooks offered both versions is harder to pin down. The bulk of the first recipe suits a preserve made in quantity when apples were in season and drawn on through the winter as pies were wanted.

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